Iris Dress 

Creative Draping Final Project

The strapless bodice was constructed on a cotton-backed satin boned Barbara Matera style foundation with continually quilted bust cups. Then the silk chiffon sleeve flounces were gathered onto an elastic and seamed on covered by the bias facing. Over the top of the strapless bodice, there is a quilted double layer yoke of coutil and stiff-stuff; in the back panel of the shaped yoke are a mix of 1/4" and 1/2" steel bones that act as a support for the petal structure. The outer layer of the yoke is seamed to have openings for the petal wires. These petals wires run the exterior of the petal as well as a few interior supports. On top of the wires sits an apron like support layer of quilted organza and tutu-weight net; that is then finished with 1/2" and 1" wide flat horsehair. Once in place, the entire petal was mulled with a sock like piece of spandex. To finish the silk petals exteriors, once painted with dye paste, they were seamed and gathered into place. Lastly the look was completed with a green two-petal wrap skirt with ruched chiffon overlay to mimic the receptacle of a flower where is transitions from flower to stem. 

Iris Dress

Iris Dress

Iris Dress

Iris Dress

Iris Dress

Iris Dress

Iris Dress

Iris Dress

Iris Dress

Iris Dress

Iris Dress Rendering

Iris Dress Rendering

Fabrics

Fabrics

1/2 Scale Mockup

1/2 Scale Mockup

1/2 Scale Wire Map

1/2 Scale Wire Map

Strapless Foundation

Strapless Foundation

Strapless Foundation

Strapless Foundation

Strapless Foundation

Strapless Foundation

Bust Piece Thread Marked

Bust Piece Thread Marked

Bodice in Process

Bodice in Process

Petal on Frame for Painting

Petal on Frame for Painting

Petal with Silk Painting

Petal with Silk Painting

Mockup

Mockup

Mockup with Support Apron

Mockup with Support Apron

Silk Chiffon Sleeve Flounces

Silk Chiffon Sleeve Flounces

Petals in Process

Petals in Process

Classical Plate Tutu

Third Year Project

Classical Plate Tutu

Classical Plate Tutu

Classical Plate Tutu

Classical Plate Tutu

Classical Plate Tutu

Classical Plate Tutu

Classical Plate Tutu

Classical Plate Tutu

Classical Plate Tutu

Classical Plate Tutu

Classical Plate Tutu

Classical Plate Tutu

Classical Plate Tutu

Classical Plate Tutu

Fabrics

Fabrics

Bodice Detail

Bodice Detail

Plate Detail

Plate Detail

Bodice in Process

Bodice in Process

Bodice Before Attaching Bolero

Bodice Before Attaching Bolero

Scalloped Net Layers

Scalloped Net Layers

Pleated Net Layers

Pleated Net Layers

Attaching Net Layers to Knicker

Attaching Net Layers to Knicker

Figuring Out Plate Design

Figuring Out Plate Design

Bodice and Plate with Hotfix Stones

Bodice and Plate with Hotfix Stones

Matera Scoured Nylon Strapless Foundation and Dress

Advanced Couture

Scoured nylon net and cotton backed satin, boned Barbara Matera style foundation with organically draped couture dress. 

Strapless Foundation

Strapless Foundation

Finished Strapless Foundation Dress

Finished Strapless Foundation Dress

Strapless Foundation

Strapless Foundation

Strapless Foundation

Strapless Foundation

Strapless Foundation

Strapless Foundation

Process Photo While Draping

Process Photo While Draping

Process Photo While Draping

Process Photo While Draping

Finished Strapless Foundation Dress

Finished Strapless Foundation Dress

Finished Strapless Foundation Dress

Finished Strapless Foundation Dress

Finished Strapless Foundation Dress

Finished Strapless Foundation Dress

Historical Reproduction Project

Advanced Couture

For this project, I chose one of the historic bodices from the CoStar Collection. The bodice I researched dates back to 1900-5 and was in good condition, so I was able to handle and annualize the original construction. During the research process, I created an 1/8" scale pattern of the original bodice and then scaled it up for a modern body, which was then produced to mimic the original bodice. The paper notating the full description of the original bodice can be found published with the archive at - 

Reproduction Bodice on Model

Reproduction Bodice on Model

Original Bodice and Reproduction

Original Bodice and Reproduction

Reproduction Bodice on Model

Reproduction Bodice on Model

Reproduction Bodice on Model

Reproduction Bodice on Model

Reproduction Bodice on Model

Reproduction Bodice on Model

Reproduction Bodice on Model

Reproduction Bodice on Model

Reproduction Bodice on Model

Reproduction Bodice on Model

Cuff Detail

Cuff Detail

Front Sleeve Seam with Pin Tucks

Front Sleeve Seam with Pin Tucks

Yoke Closure

Yoke Closure

Ribbon Belt Attaches with Thread Bar

Ribbon Belt Attaches with Thread Bar

Yoke Closure

Yoke Closure

Bodice Interior

Bodice Interior

Original Bodice and Reproduction

Original Bodice and Reproduction

Original Bodice and Reproduction

Original Bodice and Reproduction

Reproduction on Dressform

Reproduction on Dressform

Reproduction on Dressform

Reproduction on Dressform

Reproduction on Dressform

Reproduction on Dressform

Scaled 1/8" Pattern

Scaled 1/8" Pattern

Patterned from original bodice.

Tailored Wool Suit Jacket

Tailoring 

Coat Lining

Coat Lining

Coat Fronts in Process

Coat Fronts in Process

Before Removing Tailor Tacking

Before Removing Tailor Tacking

Interior Chest Pocket

Interior Chest Pocket

Lapel

Lapel

Double Pipping Pocket with Flap

Double Pipping Pocket with Flap

Coat Front

Coat Front

Coat Side

Coat Side

Cot Back

Cot Back

Silk Morie Spoon Buck Corset

Advanced Couture

Corset in Fit Model

Corset in Fit Model

Inspiration Corset

Inspiration Corset

From the Boston Museum of Fine Art

Corset in Fit Model

Corset in Fit Model

Corset in Fit Model

Corset in Fit Model

Corset in Fit Model

Corset in Fit Model

Corset in Fit Model

Corset in Fit Model

Corset in Fit Model

Corset in Fit Model

Corset in Fit Model

Corset in Fit Model

Placket Cover Hand Embroidery

Placket Cover Hand Embroidery

Corset with Flossed Bones

Corset with Flossed Bones

14th Century through 1810

Period Pattern Projects
Every two weeks, students presented a half drape based on a historical painting or extent garment from the period. 
Period Pattern Projects

Period Pattern Projects

14th Century to Revolution

14th Century Man

14th Century Man

14th Century Man

14th Century Man

14th Century Man

14th Century Man

Tacuinum Sanitatis Lombardy c.1390s

Tacuinum Sanitatis Lombardy c.1390s

Paris Bibliotheque Nationale

15th Cen. - Early Renaissance Female

15th Cen. - Early Renaissance Female

15th Cen. - Early Renaissance Female

15th Cen. - Early Renaissance Female

15th Cen. - Early Renaissance Female

15th Cen. - Early Renaissance Female

1445-50 Jost Haller- St. George and the Dragon

1445-50 Jost Haller- St. George and the Dragon

Unterlinden Museum, Colmar

16th Century Man

16th Century Man

16th Century Man

16th Century Man

16th Century Man

16th Century Man

16th Century Man

16th Century Man

Moroni- The Gentleman in Pink, 1560

Moroni- The Gentleman in Pink, 1560

Collezione conti Morosini, Bergamo

Cavalier Female

Cavalier Female

Cavalier Female

Cavalier Female

Cavalier Female

Cavalier Female

Cavalier Female

Cavalier Female

Gonzales Coques - Family of Jan Baptista Anthoni

Gonzales Coques - Family of Jan Baptista Anthoni

1659-65

Restoration Man

Restoration Man

Restoration Man

Restoration Man

Restoration Man

Restoration Man

Restoration Man

Restoration Man

Portrait_of_Aleksander_Zasławski-Ostrogski

Portrait_of_Aleksander_Zasławski-Ostrogski

(1670)

Rococo Female

Rococo Female

Rococo Female

Rococo Female

Rococo Female

Rococo Female

Rococo Female

Rococo Female

Museum of Fine Arts Boston (1760s - France)

Museum of Fine Arts Boston (1760s - France)

Rococo Male

Rococo Male

Rococo Male

Rococo Male

Rococo Male

Rococo Male

Metropolitan Museum of Art

Metropolitan Museum of Art

Ca. 1780 / British

1810 - 1910

Period Pattern Projects

Every two weeks, students presented a half drape based on a historical painting or extent garment from the period. 
1815-1910 Period Pattern

1815-1910 Period Pattern

The Metropolitan Museum of Art- 1817

The Metropolitan Museum of Art- 1817

Inspiration Dress

Regency Dress

Regency Dress

Regency Dress

Regency Dress

Regency Dress

Regency Dress

Regency Dress

Regency Dress

The Metropolitan Museum (ca. 1830-5)

The Metropolitan Museum (ca. 1830-5)

Inspiration Dress

Romantic Dress

Romantic Dress

Romantic Dress

Romantic Dress

Romantic Dress

Romantic Dress

Museum at FIT

Museum at FIT

Inspiration Dress

Crinoline Dress

Crinoline Dress

Crinoline Dress

Crinoline Dress

Crinoline Dress

Crinoline Dress

Crinoline Dress

Crinoline Dress

The Metropolitan Museum (1867-71)

The Metropolitan Museum (1867-71)

Inspiration Dress

Large Bustle Dress

Large Bustle Dress

Large Bustle Dress

Large Bustle Dress

Large Bustle Dress

Large Bustle Dress

Large Bustle Dress

Large Bustle Dress

Large Bustle Dress

Large Bustle Dress

Prague Museum (ca. 1870-80)

Prague Museum (ca. 1870-80)

Inspiration Dress

Prague Museum (ca. 1870-80)

Prague Museum (ca. 1870-80)

Inspiration Dress

Small Bustle Dress

Small Bustle Dress

Small Bustle Dress

Small Bustle Dress

Small Bustle Dress

Small Bustle Dress

Antique Gown’s Auction – (ca. 1890s)

Antique Gown’s Auction – (ca. 1890s)

Inspiration Dress

Antique Gown’s Auction – (ca. 1890s)

Antique Gown’s Auction – (ca. 1890s)

Inspiration Dress

Late Victorian

Late Victorian

Late Victorian

Late Victorian

Late Victorian

Late Victorian

Late Victorian

Late Victorian

Late Victorian

Late Victorian

Minnesota Historical Society 1901-2

Minnesota Historical Society 1901-2

Inspiration Dress

Edwardian Dress

Edwardian Dress

Edwardian Dress

Edwardian Dress

Edwardian Dress

Edwardian Dress

Edwardian Dress

Edwardian Dress

Day and Evening Dresses - 1910 through 1950s

Period Pattern Projects
Every two weeks, students presented a half drape based on a extent garment from the period.  
1910 - 1950s Day and Evening Dresses

1910 - 1950s Day and Evening Dresses

1910 Evening Dress

1910 Evening Dress

1910 Evening Dress

1910 Evening Dress

1910 Evening Dress

1910 Evening Dress

Smith College Historic Collection

Smith College Historic Collection

Ca. 1911-1915

1920s Day Dress

1920s Day Dress

1920s Day Dress

1920s Day Dress

1920s Day Dress

1920s Day Dress

From an Auction Site

From an Auction Site

Ca. 1920s

1920s Evening Dress

1920s Evening Dress

1920s Evening Dress

1920s Evening Dress

1920s Evening Dress

1920s Evening Dress

The Kyoto Costume Institute

The Kyoto Costume Institute

Ca. 1923

Late 1930s Day Dress

Late 1930s Day Dress

Late 1930s Day Dress

Late 1930s Day Dress

IMG_2052-002

IMG_2052-002

FIDM Museum

FIDM Museum

1939

1930s Evening Dress

1930s Evening Dress

1930s Evening Dress

1930s Evening Dress

1930s Evening Dress

1930s Evening Dress

From an Auction Site

From an Auction Site

1930s Evening Dress

From an Auction Site

From an Auction Site

1930s Evening Dress

1940s Dress

1940s Dress

1940s Dress

1940s Dress

1940s Dress

1940s Dress

From an Auction Site

From an Auction Site

1940s Dress

1950s Dress

1950s Dress

1950s Dress

1950s Dress

1950s Dress

1950s Dress

From an Auction Site

From an Auction Site

1950s Dress

Boned Ballet Bodice

Couture Methods - UNC Chapel Hill

Silk dupioni ballet bodice that is flat lined to cotton backed satin. The center front panels are continuously quilted with a layer of stiff stuff for support. Through the front of the bodice there are flat steel bones and the back has spiral steel bones. It is finished with a double row of hook and eye tap and elastic ballet loops ready to attach to a tutu yoke. 

Ballet Bodice Front View

Ballet Bodice Front View

Ballet Bodice Exterior

Ballet Bodice Exterior

Ballet Bodice Interior

Ballet Bodice Interior

Ballet Bodice Side Front View

Ballet Bodice Side Front View

Ballet Bodice Side View

Ballet Bodice Side View

Ballet Bodice Back View

Ballet Bodice Back View

(the size of the form does not allow the bodice to close completely)

Undergraduate Independent Study

Classical Plate Tutu - Columbus State University 

Coutil boned ballet bodice with elastic ballet loops attaching it to pleated Balanchine net plate tutu. 

Classical Ballet Tutu

Classical Ballet Tutu

Note: Drag lines appear only because the foam form is too large and pushing tension on the bodice.

Plate Detail

Plate Detail

    © 2018 Robin Ankerich • All rights reserved.