Iris Dress
Creative Draping Final Project
The strapless bodice was constructed on a cotton-backed satin boned Barbara Matera style foundation with continually quilted bust cups. Then the silk chiffon sleeve flounces were gathered onto an elastic and seamed on covered by the bias facing. Over the top of the strapless bodice, there is a quilted double layer yoke of coutil and stiff-stuff; in the back panel of the shaped yoke are a mix of 1/4" and 1/2" steel bones that act as a support for the petal structure. The outer layer of the yoke is seamed to have openings for the petal wires. These petals wires run the exterior of the petal as well as a few interior supports. On top of the wires sits an apron like support layer of quilted organza and tutu-weight net; that is then finished with 1/2" and 1" wide flat horsehair. Once in place, the entire petal was mulled with a sock like piece of spandex. To finish the silk petals exteriors, once painted with dye paste, they were seamed and gathered into place. Lastly the look was completed with a green two-petal wrap skirt with ruched chiffon overlay to mimic the receptacle of a flower where is transitions from flower to stem.
Classical Plate Tutu
Third Year Project
Matera Scoured Nylon Strapless Foundation and Dress
Advanced Couture
Scoured nylon net and cotton backed satin, boned Barbara Matera style foundation with organically draped couture dress.
Historical Reproduction Project
Advanced Couture
For this project, I chose one of the historic bodices from the CoStar Collection. The bodice I researched dates back to 1900-5 and was in good condition, so I was able to handle and annualize the original construction. During the research process, I created an 1/8" scale pattern of the original bodice and then scaled it up for a modern body, which was then produced to mimic the original bodice. The paper notating the full description of the original bodice can be found published with the archive at -
Tailored Wool Suit Jacket
Tailoring
Silk Morie Spoon Buck Corset
Advanced Couture
14th Century through 1810
Period Pattern Projects
Every two weeks, students presented a half drape based on a historical painting or extent garment from the period.
 Period Pattern Projects14th Century to Revolution |  14th Century Man |  14th Century Man |
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 14th Century Man |  Tacuinum Sanitatis Lombardy c.1390sParis Bibliotheque Nationale |  15th Cen. - Early Renaissance Female |
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 15th Cen. - Early Renaissance Female |  15th Cen. - Early Renaissance Female |  1445-50 Jost Haller- St. George and the DragonUnterlinden Museum, Colmar |
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 16th Century Man |  16th Century Man |  16th Century Man |
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 16th Century Man |  Moroni- The Gentleman in Pink, 1560Collezione conti Morosini, Bergamo |  Cavalier Female |
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 Cavalier Female |  Cavalier Female |  Cavalier Female |
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 Gonzales Coques - Family of Jan Baptista Anthoni1659-65 |  Restoration Man |  Restoration Man |
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 Restoration Man |  Restoration Man |  Portrait_of_Aleksander_Zasławski-Ostrogski(1670) |
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 Rococo Female |  Rococo Female |  Rococo Female |
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 Rococo Female |  Museum of Fine Arts Boston (1760s - France) |  Rococo Male |
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 Rococo Male |  Rococo Male |  Metropolitan Museum of ArtCa. 1780 / British |
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1810 - 1910
Period Pattern Projects
Every two weeks, students presented a half drape based on a historical painting or extent garment from the period.
 1815-1910 Period Pattern |  The Metropolitan Museum of Art- 1817Inspiration Dress |  Regency Dress |
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 Regency Dress |  Regency Dress |  Regency Dress |
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 The Metropolitan Museum (ca. 1830-5)Inspiration Dress |  Romantic Dress |  Romantic Dress |
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 Romantic Dress |  Museum at FITInspiration Dress |  Crinoline Dress |
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 Crinoline Dress |  Crinoline Dress |  Crinoline Dress |
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 The Metropolitan Museum (1867-71)Inspiration Dress |  Large Bustle Dress |  Large Bustle Dress |
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 Large Bustle Dress |  Large Bustle Dress |  Large Bustle Dress |
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 Prague Museum (ca. 1870-80)Inspiration Dress |  Prague Museum (ca. 1870-80)Inspiration Dress |  Small Bustle Dress |
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 Small Bustle Dress |  Small Bustle Dress |  Antique Gown’s Auction – (ca. 1890s)Inspiration Dress |
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 Antique Gown’s Auction – (ca. 1890s)Inspiration Dress |  Late Victorian |  Late Victorian |
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 Late Victorian |  Late Victorian |  Late Victorian |
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 Minnesota Historical Society 1901-2Inspiration Dress |  Edwardian Dress |  Edwardian Dress |
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 Edwardian Dress |  Edwardian Dress |
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Day and Evening Dresses - 1910 through 1950s
Period Pattern Projects
Every two weeks, students presented a half drape based on a extent garment from the period.
 1910 - 1950s Day and Evening Dresses |  1910 Evening Dress |  1910 Evening Dress |
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 1910 Evening Dress |  Smith College Historic CollectionCa. 1911-1915 |  1920s Day Dress |
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 1920s Day Dress |  1920s Day Dress |  From an Auction SiteCa. 1920s |
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 1920s Evening Dress |  1920s Evening Dress |  1920s Evening Dress |
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 The Kyoto Costume InstituteCa. 1923 |  Late 1930s Day Dress |  Late 1930s Day Dress |
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 IMG_2052-002 |  FIDM Museum1939 |  1930s Evening Dress |
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 1930s Evening Dress |  1930s Evening Dress |  From an Auction Site1930s Evening Dress |
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 From an Auction Site1930s Evening Dress |  1940s Dress |  1940s Dress |
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 1940s Dress |  From an Auction Site1940s Dress |  1950s Dress |
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 1950s Dress |  1950s Dress |  From an Auction Site1950s Dress |
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Boned Ballet Bodice
Couture Methods - UNC Chapel Hill
Silk dupioni ballet bodice that is flat lined to cotton backed satin. The center front panels are continuously quilted with a layer of stiff stuff for support. Through the front of the bodice there are flat steel bones and the back has spiral steel bones. It is finished with a double row of hook and eye tap and elastic ballet loops ready to attach to a tutu yoke.
 Ballet Bodice Front View |  Ballet Bodice Exterior |  Ballet Bodice Interior |
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 Ballet Bodice Side Front View |  Ballet Bodice Side View |  Ballet Bodice Back View(the size of the form does not allow the bodice to close completely) |
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Undergraduate Independent Study
Classical Plate Tutu - Columbus State University
Coutil boned ballet bodice with elastic ballet loops attaching it to pleated Balanchine net plate tutu.
 Classical Ballet TutuNote: Drag lines appear only because the foam form is too large and pushing tension on the bodice. |  Plate Detail |
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